Culture – Because Korea

“Travel early and travel often. Live abroad, if you can. Understand cultures other than your own. As your understanding of other cultures increases, your understanding of yourself and your own culture will increase exponentially” – Tom Freston
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Wise words to live by Tom (whoever you are), wise words to live by. Despite such wise words, I think most people find it difficult to fully embrace or immerse themselves in another society’s culture when living abroad or traveling, even if that is the very reason for doing so. Biases, preconceived notions, unshiftable moral values and general apathy all serve as stumbling blocks towards immersion when you find yourself in a foreign country for an extended period of time.
I know this has certainly been the case for me. General apathy has probably been my largest stumbling block while living abroad. This isn’t to say I haven’t enjoyed my time thus far in Korea – on the contrary – it’s been a life changing experience. On one hand, I’ve tried countless new foods, wandered through streets of random neighborhoods and met a lot of great people; on the other, I haven’t learned how to read hangul (Korea’s written language which is not difficult to learn), I can count on two hands (maybe three) the number of words I can speak in Korean and on most weekday evenings, I find myself not out and about exploring…but rather sitting on my couch watching Netflix.
Granted, it doesn’t help that even if I could read hangul, whatever it translates to still likely won’t make sense to me since it wouldn’t be a direct translation, nor does the fact that so many signs, menus, etc. etc. are written in English as well. I would probably speak more Korean if it were a necessity, but the fact of the matter is that it’s not – most Koreans can speak at least a little English, understand more and I only ever speak English in school because, well, that’s what I was hired to do. Finally, no matter where you live, eventually you settle into a routine. Most people don’t have the money or energy to go out “exploring” or “culturally enriching” their lives every evening of the week but would rather spend a quiet evening in with friends, family, a good book, or one of Netflix latest shows (currently re-watching Peaky Blinders in preparation for season 4 #hollaatyaboy).
 Routines aren’t a bad thing, but sometimes complacency can make you forget why you were living abroad in the first place, which is why it’s always refreshing when you have a friend or family member come to visit!
Enter my friend Maggie, who came to visit for four days here in Seoul. Having quit her job, Maggie was on the tail end of an epic, self-introspective six-week adventure through Southeast Asia; having already visited Bali, Cambodia, Hong Kong, Vietnam and Malaysia for varying reasons, Mags decided to end the trip with her least favorite half-Mexican/quarter-French/quarter-Finnish bloke before heading back to D.C.
Knowing I might be flayed alive (or receive a tongue lashing at the very least) if I forgot to pick her up from the airport like I did to my boy Max, I woke up in the early hours of the morning to make my way to Incheon. Maggie and I caught up on the bus ride back to Gangnam on all things related to life back home, life in Korea and her journey through Southeast Asia.
Despite her taking a night flight and barely sleeping and me waking up in the wee hours of the morning, there was no rest for the weary as we really only had the weekend to do stuff together since I had to work on Monday and Tuesday. After giving Mags a grand tour of Saari HQ aka my studio apartment, we booked it for Changdeokgung Palace.
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Entrance to the palace with Bukhansan Mountain in the background
Recognized as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, Changdeokgung Palace is one of the five grand palaces built by the Joseon dynasty and was favored by many Princes of this era (1392-1897) as many of the buildings blended in seamlessly with the natural surrounding topography. It was one of the places I had heard about during my time here in Korea as a great place to visit but hadn’t gotten around to doing so I was glad when Maggie suggested we go.
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Traditional decor of one of the many buildings within the Palace grounds
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Many of the builidings were burned down during the Japanese occupation of Korea before  eventually being rebuilt
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We saw many Koreans (mostly women) here and at Hanok Village wearing a Hanbok, a traditional attire worn by Koreans on special occasions or in culturally preserved locations such as the Palace.
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Looking at all the pictures from Maggie’s camera is making me seriously consider buying one of my own
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Kimchiiiiiii!
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Secret Garden Selfie

 

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Within the Secret Garden of Changdeokgung Palace. It’s where princes would escape to meditate, write poetry, and host parties (not only am I stealing Maggie’s photos, I’m hijacking her Facebook captions as well)

You can’t visit Christian in Korea without eating his favorite Korean dish – dak galbi. So after visiting the Palace, for Maggie’s first meal in Korea I took her to a place by Gangnam station that I frequent.

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One of the many expressions I make moments before eating this fabled dish

The evening was spent eating kimbap (Korean sushi basically), tofu stew (tastier than it sounds) and bibimbap at a restaurant close to my place before heading to meet up with a bunch of friends for my buddy Connor’s 30th birthday.

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Birthday boy & KJ enjoying taking that L to….
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Sophia & Mags (Maggie you will be allowed a rematch against current champions Tom and myself whenever you return)
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Maggie has a long way to go before she nails that Biggie Smalls impression that she was going for

The next day was spent brunching with KJ, Connor and Eliza before heading out to Bukchon Hanok Village.

Had I known Hanok Village was literally right next to Chandeokgung Palace, then we could have knocked out two birds with one stone on the same day but alas, I didn’t. Live and learn.

At first, we were slightly disappointed with the “village” as many of these traditional houses are interspersed with more modern houses, stores and restaurants. We wandered aimlessly for a while before fortunately stumbling upon the tour/information office which we initally thought we didn’t need. After grabbing a map, we followed the outlined course that most people take and got to see more of what we were expecting.

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Traditional Hanok houses
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Inside peek

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Poem that adorns the bookshelf
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Nice street view with Seoul Tower in the background

After our tour of Hanok Village, it was off to Lotte World Tower before we ran out of daylight! I visited LWT back in July with my buddy Max which was surely a highlight of his trip here and despite the sky being a bit more hazy this time around, it did not disappoint.

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Lotte World Tower selfie
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Started from the bottom now were….oh shit
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Maggie felt the same way
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Seoul sunset

The weekend wouldn’t be complete without a trip to Aori Ramen, one of my new favorite restaurants. Speaking to friends who have visited Japan, they all agree that if you can’t get ramen in Japan, this is the next best thing. Apparently lots of Koreans agree as there is almost always a line going out the door no matter when you go. But oh baby was it worth the wait. Ohhhh babyyyy.

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Ramen is bliss

I didn’t see too much more of Maggie since I had to work on Monday and Tuesday, but Monday evening we went out one last time and got dinner in Hongdae with Chelsea and my other friend/co-worker Sophie. Hongdae is a young, trendy neighborhood and one specific street is well known for having young aspiring K Poppers and dancers with varying levels of talent try to make a name for themselves by doing live performances.

This one particular night, one guy had attracted a huge crowd and so naturally, we watched him do his thing for about twenty minutes. Undoubtedly, this performer has been doing this for a long time as he danced effortlessly to every song that he put on, all of which varied in rhythm and tempo. It was also quite amusing as most of his feigned attempts at seduction were directed towards males in the crowd, me not excluded (at least by me a drink first why don’t ya sheesh).

I finally bit the bullet and upgraded my account so I can upload videos for your viewing pleasure. Also note that I believe the guy he pulled from the crowd must have been a plant because he was also too good and in sync with the performer to just be some random guy. Then again, I’ve heard at some Korean clubs, people will dance in unison by the dozens having all memorized the moves from the music video so who knows.

The highlight of the performance had to be the little boy that the guy kept coming back to, who was absolutely mesmerized by how this guy was dancing. Finally at the end of the show, the performer brought him to the middle of the circle and he proceeded to go all out!

I’d say that was a great way to spend Maggie’s last evening in Seoul. Aside from one quick lunch the next day, that was all she wrote…thanks for visiting Mags!

Oh I bet you thought that was it didn’t you? Well helllll no. I’m not done with you yet. Go put the kettle on the stove and crank up the Christmas tunes for background music because I’ve still got more cultural stuff to drone on about.

Last Saturday, I went with Chelsea to meet up with some other friends over at Gwangjang Market. Why or how it took me so long to go to a traditional market like this is beyond me. The food is cheap and delicious while the market itself is incredibly vibrant due to the countless colors and aromas along with the typical hustle and bustle of vendors and customers alike. If you really wanna get a good feel for a city, go to the markets.

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After gorging on Bindaetteok (Mung Bean Pancake), Tteok-bokki (Rice Cake) and Dumplings (you know what those are), Chelsea and I met up with our other friends to ascertain the whereabouts of a Mr. Gordon Ramsay.

Yes, our little adventure to the market was twofold – eat scrumptious food and hang out/shoot-the-shit with Gordon Ramsay (pics would suffice), who has recently endorsed and became the sponsor of Cass, Korea’s most popular beer yet somehow also one of its least favorite among Koreans and foreigners alike. Good ol Gordon was due to show up to the market that afternoon and after an hour of searching for where he would enter, waiting, waiting and more waiting, we finally caught sight of our temperamental chef.

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Celebrity Chef Gordon Ramsay in the flesh
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This is right around where I was standing and as he walked by I proceeded to shout “HEY GORDON WHAT HAPPENED TO GETTING HERE AT 3:30?!?!” or something along those lines
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I had my peoples standing everywhere so as to get multiple shots of Mr. Kitchen Nightmares

In the end, walking/standing around for over an hour in 30 degree weather just to get a glimpse of this dude probably wasn’t worth it, but showing up to the market definitely was and something I definitely recommend if you ever come visit Seoul. I know I will be frequenting markets more often from here on out.

Speaking of recommendations, my Canadian buddy Christian had mentioned to me in the Summer when he came to visit Seoul with his brother Oliver that the War Memorial of Korea was phenomenal and something I had to go see for myself. The exhibits certainly did not disappoint and while it may have paled in comparison to visiting the beaches of Normandy a few years back, it was a sobering reminder of the horrors of war and the amount of pain that humans seem to so willingly inflict upon one another with alarming yet also unsurprising regularity.

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Entrance to the Memorial

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A South Korean officer embracing with his North Korean brother (actual brother) on the battlefield which is meant to express reconciliation, love and forgiveness while the crack in the dome stands for the division of Korea and the hope for reunification

The Korean War, often labeled by many as “The Forgotten War” in many ways can be seen as a microcosm of the tensions that exist between North and South Korea to this day. While the UN has traditionally been known as a peacekeeping entity, if I’m not mistaken, this was the only time in their history that they sanctioned the use of military force and intervention on behalf of South Korea with 16 nations including the U.S. answering the call. In total, an estimated 2.5 million soldiers and civilians were killed or wounded during the war which eventually ended in a stalemate along the 38th parallel, where the border is between the two countries today.

As you might expect, the exhibits were filled with an incredible amount of information, illustrations, life-sized models of weaponry built to scale and everything in between. This is a place I will certainly be coming back to, likely on a day this Winter when it’s too cold to do anything outside.

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Alas, I believe that brings a recounting of another chapter of life in Korea to an end. It’s been a pretty great month so far and I was glad I got to embrace the Korean culture in a variety of ways. I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving back home and my next post will be sure to include Thanksgiving in Korea and all the delicious foodz that I ate here in Korea during that time. After all, I’m hitting the beaches of Bali for Christmas so there’s no time like the present to get in full dad bod shape!

Published by TheSaunteringSaari

Living in Seoul and abroad until, well, who knows. Feel free to follow my not-so-unique adventures here or on my instagram thesaunteringsaari

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